Tuesday, July 29, 2008

Great gifts


Yesterday it was my birthday(48).
I left at 7 am to go into the mountain range of Stony Creek. Same way; bike to gravel pit, hike up 'nipple mountain'. Last week I worked on the trail a little bit, it made a difference. It's only marked for 1km. From there I would like the make a more direct line to 'pretty pond', but today I follow the old route as it is easy to find, it goes over rock slabs in the forest, and it is familiar. Although I have to go through thick forest to get from the rocks, through a depression over another ridge to get to the pond. Pretty pond has more grass again, only two circles of water. From 'pretty pond' to the foot of the mountain went easy today, I should mark it soon. Also the climb up the mountain went well. Instead of getting stuck in the Alders, I found rock slides to climb up. On the bottom of one I found a den , marked by lots of droppings, possibly Porcupine. The Spruce trees here are gigantic. I found a standing dead one, 1 meter diameter. The life ones, the trunks are hard to see because of the branches.

At 9.15 am I reach the top! The distance traveled, roughly 5 km, elevation gain 1500 feet (the maps still measure elevation in feet). From here the next 1.5 km up and down, staying at 4000/4200 feet. Around here that is around the tree line, which means buck brush, but here not very high. I worry a little bit about the last dip I have to go through, it is very wide and I know there to be blue berry bushes. On my way up I snacked on the occasional ripe berry. You see, I am a little apprehensive, bears like berries too. As I sit on a rock overlooking the berry valley. I sing a song, loudly (which is a nice thing to do).

Lo and behold, no bear, but a bull moose, pops up and runs away, It is running away, eventually out of sight, down over a ridge south east. I am going up and north east, and feel it safe for me to continue. Moose are territorial and can be dangerous too. As I am far away enough, it is an awesome sight to see, this dark shining animal, with a big rack (antlers).

The berries up here are not ripe yet. And around 10.15 I reach high ground,4500 feet. This is where I love it very much. Just me and the rock. The mountain is polished off by the glacier and low plants cover the mountain. Here and there an erratic, the biggest one here with a diameter of 5 meters, I practice my rock climbing skills.
The weather is beautiful! I take the time to look at all the flowers, birds, and try to spot the abundant ground squirrels(gophers), but they shriek and are gone before I get a good look.
I am aiming for the next mountain over, and taking a direct route, leaving the 'fire tower ridge' to my right. The walking on the side hill is harder, but I am very happy I did it, as I cross many creek beds and they harbor the most beautiful flowers (see last post).

At noon I reach the valley in front of the next mountain. Its a giant. It is 5800 feet high, on three sides it rises up steeply for 2000 feet. I am looking at the smallest fourth side for a climb. But as it is noon already ,it has to wait for another day. I drop down to explore the rushing, creek. It is a most wonderful place, quite open, the creek bed (gravel), approximately 30feet wide, where as the creek on average 4 feet wide, there is still snow patches. There's high rock walls, and the meandering creek with rapids, one being a waterfall 0.75 meter high. Little pools. Lovely.

I don't feel comfortable to have my lunch here and go for the ridge I had left to my right. I come close to the little .....Now what are they called? Lakes or ponds, they are the origin of the creek. The ridge is steep on this side, and I enjoy the climb up. Half way up at 1.30 pm, I have my lunch, overlooking this beautiful land.
I wasn't far from the top. And lay down in the sun, flies and bees zooming around me. I follow the ridge towards the fire tower. Like most days this summer the sky is full of clouds and I don't expect to look into the St. Elias Range. But for the second time today; Lo and behold, there is a surprise, above the mountain east of Haines Jct. I see the Kluane range and above that; one single white peak! Small though, as the distance to the great mountains is 120 km. As you see I did get a photo from the first surprise, but it happens to be that the batteries of the camera ran out. No surprise; I have to come back another day.

One more gift awaits me; An old caribou antler!(where I saw the moose).

Fritillary on Sweet Coltsfoot



Flowers encountered on the mountain, July 28 2008.

The identification of All I encounter, becomes increasingly difficult. Hilarious , might be the word. For Example an Arnica, an easily recognized yellow daisy, but Arnica is just the genus, it has many different species.
And like the Butterfly here which is a Fritillary. It might be the Frija Fritillary, which name really is Boloria frija, which to make it interesting has two varieties.
The Coltsfoot that's easier, this one definitely being the fragrant one, one of a kind;
-Petasites frigidus.
I hope its like my human friends, once you know them, you recognize them anywhere, even in disguise.
And my lists are very incomplete, what grows on one mountain, I don't always encounter on the next. For today I suffice again to only name what I had not named on previous list. I also don't always remember which one I have mention before. As in the case of
- Anemone parviflora, the Wind-flower.
Which could bloom in early spring, but yesterday I found beside a creek, which still had snow patches bridging over it.
- Artemisia norvgica ssp saxatilis, Mountain Sagewort.
Which grows on every mountain around here, dark green with a raceme of nodding yellowish heads,finally I know its full name.
- Dodocathean frigidum, Shooting star.
A specially beautiful flower, which I am happy to have finally met.
- Dryopteris fragrans, Fragrant Fern.
Oh heavenly it's smell, who would have known, to stick ones nose in a fern.
-Parnassia kotzebui, Small grass of Parnassus.
- Saxifraga flagellaris ssp setigera, Spider plant.
True to it's name, with bright yellow flowers, beautiful.
-Senecio tundricola, a Groundsel.
Another one, I have seen it's bright yellow/orange daisy like flowers on every mountain hike this summer, I am happy to know the name.
And two more delightful things to mention,
- the Oxytropis nigrescens,
which was abundantly blooming last time I went on this mountain (June 21) This tiny little grayish plant, with in comparison, big, shiny brown pea-pod. (Only a few had come to seed.)
- Epilobium , Fireweed,
Big and glorieus, magenta blossoms along my driveway,
there's tiny ones high up there!

Monday, July 28, 2008

Saturday, July 26, 2008

Moss Campion and Frigid Arnica


going down, looking up

July 23, Shaneinbaw.
From the highway we biked up for one and a half hour, on a firm, but sandy trail. Turning muddy, which harbors the Valerian ( A favorite of mine), which landed us in a city park like valley, an undergrowth of Willow brush etc. with increasingly beautiful big Spruce trees, spread out, so each individual tree rises to its greatest potential.

We figure out a line to follow, and hike across the wetland, first Jane fills up her water bottle in a pond, but a little up she finds beautiful clear water, maybe a spring, which gives us a delicious draft. We are hiking towards sand dunes on the foot of the mountain. From the bikes it takes us 2 hours to come out above the treeline. I am thinking that seems to be the usual thing around here. The Valleys where we live are at just below 2500 feet and the treeline above 3500 feet. The toughest 1000 feet of elevation gain for me. I work out a pattern of climbing and resting which works for me, I stop at regular intervals, and very much enjoy the increasingly beautiful views, and the increasingly beautiful wild flowers. Adding to the list I made a few days ago.
Aria! I saw a field of Lupines like on your photo from Iceland. Gorgeous.
I said tough, but actually we are very lucky and follow moose trails most of the way.
Once I am beyond the steep climb above the treeline I gallop. Jane is ahead of me and sees a line of sheep on the mountain over, but still part of the Shaneinbaw Range ( which is not named on any map. The lake below is Shaneinbaw lake. The highest peak from this group is called Shaneinbaw mountain, so does that make this Shaneinbaw Range?)

Now we are up here we decide if we go on to that highest peak or follow the ridge above the lake. The snow helps us make the right decision, we don't quite know it yet , but we are in for a most amazing hike. About the snow, yes fresh snow, first I see little clusters of snow crystals behind every poll of grass. Dressed for the weather I am happy that it is not snowing now, or worse raining. Although when I am out here I enjoy it all.

I will maybe add a picture of flowers, which are totally amazing again today. But distinctly different. Today not many pink plumes of Bistort, but more of the Alpine Meadow Bistort(Polygonum viviparum). The most glorious on the uphill are the Blue For-get-me-nots. Up but especially later on down, there are many flowers from the pea family, which I have to identify another day. The Hedisarum alpinum, which is the Eskimo patato is the very same that grows at lower elevations.

Anyway This ridge is my dream come true. It is a mountain cut in half, by who knows what kind of event. We are walking on very top of the ridge, one side gently sloped (imagine gentle with wind and snow) But the side I am googling over, vertically down. On top of this ridge we are following a sheep trail 10 inches wide and often 10 inches deep. We follow their trail on to a rock outcrop down the vertical slope. You gotta see it. Its too much for words (one day I'll try). Back on the ridge we have a break just north of the top, the wind is coming from the south.
I definitely don't want to walk back into that wind and we decide to find a way down towards the lake, which again, was the best decision ever. On the map it looks like we might have to go all the way to the north end of the lake. But as it turns out we see from the top a beautifully green and white plateau a little lower.(you cannot see this from below) The green being grass and flowers, the white; Rock, crystal clear white rock as it turns out.

At this very moment as I am typing I am tantalized by the feeling that I just want to be there , right now.

Jane chooses a line down, starting by the most ,white outcrop, which is distinct from below. I would have thought it too dangerous , but as it turns out it is most spectacular and climbing down carefully I am not scared at any point as the rock provides solid steps.
We come out on a 'dune' which leads us straight to the lake. Where we watch the ducklings, have a fire and make soup and tea. Again we come upon a game trail which eventually crosses the meandering, sandy. small creek and brings us by the trail, which will bring us to our bikes.

Our legs are tired and it is totally invigorating to step on the bike. The trail has a perfect slop. Who ever made the trail (thank you) It is perfect. on a certain stretch it follows a ridge that is steep on both sides. As I get sand in my eyes, I have to take out my contact lenses and put on my glasses. I have fallen behind now, which gives me the opportunity to fly down to catch up. I love it!

footnote: one more flower, Androsace chamaejasme, Rock Jasmine.
Next time I encounter it I will hopefully recognize it and put my nose to it, it is fragrant!

good morning sunshine!

The Swallows (Tree or Violet-green) are having a second set of young in the nest box under the eaves.
The Peewees are doing very well.
The roses are still spreading their scent.
Life is good.
In the morning sun out front, we will have pancakes with freshly picked wild, raspberries and gooseberries.

I picked the raspberries actually Thursday morning on my way into town. Yesterday evening I saw a Black Bear coming out of the patch. Thursday I also stopped at the Takhini Salt Flats; to check the Gentian . I think it indeed is a Gentianopsis detonsa ssp yukonensis.The Salt Flats where beautiful, so peaceful , no wind and lots of families of water birds. Two of them being Surf Scooters, exciting.

In the evening I went to the Farmers market in Whitehorse and tasted; spruce tip and soap berry jelly, very delightful. Made by a family on Fox lake. I'll find out their name.

`

Wednesday, July 23, 2008

Shaneinbaw


Wednesday July 23
1 day bike /hike with Jane Vincent.
Another 10 hour day and again not long enough.

Tuesday, July 22, 2008

Carex podocarpa?


No this is not a Phippsia. But if anybody out there knows what it is, please let me know. (It grows on the alpine.)
I call myself Keeper of Wild places. My son gave me that idea for a name many many years ago.
As I was pulling out the grass in my flower garden. He, 5 years old said; "stop mom, I am the Keeper of Grass." Since then I only have a lawn. No! But I do owe him to interest myself in grasses, well this is my start.

I got in touch with Jennifer from Yukon gov. and she suggests it is a Carex podocarpa. A sedge. And as for my grass education, she told me grasses are hollow. And I already knew;
Sedges have edges and Rushes are round.
Thanks Jennifer!